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About the author:
Greg Thomson
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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009

In praise of big, bold reds

I have gained a significant appreciation for the thin-skinned, temperamental pinot noir grape that creates fully expressive, medium-bodied wines. But they will never take the place in my heart that belongs to big, hearty wines. At this time of year especially, I want a red that will fill me with warmth.

The most traditional bold reds are the Bordeaux. It's hard to beat the combination of the regal, structured fruit of Cabernet Sauvignon and the soft fullness of Merlot. But lately I have been searching for less expensive alternatives to the often over-priced Bordeaux. So it's off to other parts of the world to find other full-bodied grapes.

Spanish Tempranillo has become one of my favorite standbys. I have tasted many wonderfully full, rich, and intriguing Tempranillos over the past couple of years. My favourites generally come from the Ribera del Duero region, home of one of the most famous wines in the world, Vega Sicilia (80% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon).

Another red that I have been known to gush over lately is Italian Ripasso. Although it is typically not as rich and delectable as its Valpolicella cousin Amarone, Ripasso is less than half the price and made from the same grapes (Corvina). In fact, Ripasso wines are made by repassing the fermented juice over the skins and lees of the dried Amarone grapes to give it added body.

A number of years ago I took a trip to South Africa and spent a day touring the vineyards around Cape Town. I fell in love with the wines of Stellenbosch and they haven't disappointed since. In particular, the Simonsberg region wineries have produced some of my favourite full Cabernets.

I must also go back to my recent friend, the Argentinean Malbec. For affordable reds that will tantalize your taste buds and warm your cockles, these Malbecs are hard to beat. These grapes require a significant differential between daytime high temperatures and nighttime lows, and the mountains of Mendoza, Argentina have proven to be one of the best habitats for them worldwide.

The best way of finding a new favourite wine, however, is by recommendation. I was searching through a downtown LCBO and a fellow came up to me and said "if you like great Rhône-style wines, you should definitely try this one." When I asked him why he liked it, he replied, "Well, it's my wine. That's my name, Edward Sellers, on the label." I had to try it (see below).

REVIEWS

Bonterra Vineyard The McNab, California, 2003 ($44.95) 93
A gorgeous biodynamic blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Syrah with the most incredible aroma of cocoa and fruit. A supercharged flavour of deep cherry with hints of spice and the smoothness of the greats.

Edward Sellers Vertigo, California, 2005 ($39.95) 92
Here is a gorgeous harmony of scents and flavours. This 70% Grenache, 17% Morvèdre, 13% Syrah can be termed big primarily due to the 15.8% alc. that makes it powerful. It has a cherry Kool-Aid aroma and wonderful berry and floral taste with soft tannins. Grab one before they're gone.

Bodegas y Viñedos Maurodos Prima, Spain, 2006 ($24.95) 91
This wine really lives up to its name. Gorgeous flavour, tannins, and smoothness with power at the end. A rich, imposing blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha that port lovers will adore.

Renacer Punto Final Reserve Malbec, Argentina, 2005 ($23.95) 91
Rich, deep, and smooth with lots of interest for the taste buds. Peppermint, chocolate, and strawberry come together beautifully.

Dornier Donatus, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2004 ($24.95) 90
A smokey, full fruit, meaty, peaty treat. Lots of intrigue yet surprisingly smooth, with nice subtle tannins. This 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot blend is a great example of what this region can produce.

Zenato Ripasso, Italy, 2006 ($24.95) 89
I was very happy when this became a Vintages Essential a couple of years ago. Layers of chocolate, deep fruit, and earthiness make this an essential at our dinner parties when we're looking for a rich treat.

Greg Thomson is the Women’s Post wine editor.

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Comments

I just wish he'd made more

Submitted by Greg Thomson on February 14, 2009 - 1:32pm.

I just wish he'd made more than a few hundred cases!

  • reply

Tried the Edward Sellers

Submitted by Screecher on February 8, 2009 - 9:11am.

Tried the Edward Sellers Vertigo -- terrific. Thanks for the tip.
-- Screech

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