The two questions that I’m asked most often about wine are “what’s your current favourite?” and “what’s a great affordable wine?” Unfortunately, the answers to these two questions are often at odds.

In response to the first question, my answer, more often than not, is one of a handful of Italian reds. The Italian trio that comes out on top for me is Barolo, Brunello, and Amarone. And while it is possible to find the odd one of these three at under $40 per bottle, my trinity would typically not be described as “affordable.”

In an effort to try to reconcile my answers to these questions, I went in search of Italian understudies, second fiddles, and subordinates. Luckily, I found a number that are anything but second-rate.

Barolo, known as the “king of wines,” is made from the Nebbiolo grape. I recently read a book about an Italian producer in the northwestern U.S. trying to create a great Nebbiolo wine. I loved the drama and the passion that went into trying to recreate what the winemaker had been able to produce in Italy, but there is something about the Piedmont soil that cannot be recreated outside of Italy.

Nebbiolo produces a light, tannic wine that needs time to mature. When grown in the right soil and climate, this grape brings together the incredible combination of floral and tar. Properly aged, it is hard to beat the complex, yet smooth, beauty of a Barolo. Other Nebbiolo wines, including Barbarescos, are typically not aged to the same extent as the Barolos, so these “next-in-line” wines are often sharper without the same intrigue, but some great examples, at reasonable prices, do exist.

Amarone della Valpolicella wines are produced using partially dried, primarily Corvina grapes. They undergo an extended fermentation to remove all of the sugars, leaving a dry, full-bodied, often bitter wine – Amarone means “big bitter” in Italian. A great substitute for Amarone is the wine produced by passing a Valpolicella wine over the lees and skins of the grapes generated in the production of Amarone: Ripasso. Ripasso wines undergo a second fermentation when they come into contact with the lees, producing a full-flavoured, high-alcohol content wine, similar to my beloved Amarone. Great Ripassos can be found for under $25.

And then there is Brunello di Montalcino. This is the wine that had the power to transform my wife and me from grubby tourists into the most preferred customers along the Grand Canal, just by ordering a bottle. Made from 100% Sangiovese, Brunellos, like Barolos, are aged a number of years to allow their refined elegance to blossom. While not typically more than medium-bodied, Brunellos often have great strength of character. It is hard to find a more austere wine. Most producers of Brunello also produce a “second” – typically Rosso di Montalcino. As they are not aged to the same degree and usually include inferior grapes, these wines lack the elegance of their big brothers, but they can still be very impressive at a fraction of the cost.

I’ve now got a handful of wines that answer both questions.

San Silvestro Brumo Nebbiolo D’Alba, Italy, 2006 ($16.95) 91
This is a well-structured wine with the look and feel of its great uncle, Barolo. It is a bit more acidic perhaps, but it has so much more going on than most wines under $30.
Neirano Bonimur Langhe Nebbiolo, Italy, 2006 ($15.60) 90
Loads of flavour in this gem. Cherry and earth mingle well, creating a smooth, yummy wine. It has a mustiness that adds intrigue as it doesn’t go over the top.
Luigi Righetti Campolieti Ripasso, Italy, 2007 ($17.95) 89
Coffee flavours, ripe fruit, and hints of port in the cheeks at the end – exactly what I like in a full-bodied red.
Collina dei Lecci Rosso di Montalcino, Italy, 2007 ($23.95) 89
Nice spice and smooth flavour from this Sangiovese-based “baby Brunello.” Lots of cherry up front, with a pique of smoke at the end.
Ilico Illuminati Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Italy, 2007 ($16.95) 88
This is a very friendly, medium-bodied wine made from the Montepulciano grape. Warm, with a nice combination of fruit and earth, finishing with a hint of acid and subtle tannins. Available from WineOnline.ca.