The Love of the Art

I was never an outspoken advocate for the Ontario wine industry but I am more and more impressed over time as I find individual gems.  What will it take to improve the industry further?

Brock University recently released a report on the Ontario wine industry with recommendations on how Ontario producers can best increase their chances of success both domestically and internationally.  Their conclusions were predicated on the “widespread agreement…that the best (and perhaps only) way for the industry to grow and prosper is to focus on premium and ultra-premium wines.”  While this is an interesting starting point for a study, given that more than half of the Ontario wine SKUs (and the vast majority of the volume sold) at the LCBO are under $15 per bottle, I am all for the goal of reducing Ontario schlock.

The key findings of the Brock study were that Ontario wineries need to focus on producing wines that are worthy of critical acclaim and focus on what they term “artistic rationality.”  According to the report, what this means is Ontario wine producers need to focus on winemaking as an art, maintaining an artistic reputation, and obtaining good reviews and winning awards.  Here here!  Let’s put more focus on quality.

When I think of the types of Ontario wines that stand out on an international level, the three that are top of mind are Icewine, Riesling, and Chardonnay.  Being an analytical sort I looked up the types of wines that were winning awards.  Looking at the Wine Access list of the Top 25 wines in the East (of Canada), there are 11 different varietals of wine inlcuding six Icewines, four Rieslings, four Cabernet Francs, and three Chardonnays – not a bad focus.  And these four types make up over 50 per cent of the wine made by the VQA producers.

So if we can continue to focus on quality and target what we do well, things should improve, right?  Well, the final piece of the puzzle we must foster is passion.  While the Brock study alluded to this with their focus on art, terroir, and aesthetics, they don’t go so far as to mention passion and the love of the art.  In my view, that’s the key.

REVIEWS

Tawse Quarry Road Chardonnay, Ontario, 2007 ($35) 90

A true mouthful of flavour that leans a bit more towards tropical fruit and caramel than acidity and yet maintains a nice balance.  Available alongside its big brother, Robyn’s Block Estate Chardonnay, from Wineonline.ca.

Sandhill Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, BC, 2007 ($16.75) 90

I had to try a wine from the Winery of the Year.  Although this is not one of the small lots that were instrumental in their award, this more affordable version of their Chardonnay is still wonderful.  That great combination of full and musty with overripe pineapple to round it out.

Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Chardonnay, Ontario, 2007 ($34.80) 89

Ratchet up the mustiness, crank up the butter, but don’t expect smooth.  If you like your Chardonnay New World, here you go.  14 per cent alcohol and lots of flavour.

Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Unoaked Chardonnay, Ontario, 2008 ($14.75) 88

This is how I used to like my white wine – clean, crisp, and dry.  Nicely balanced acidity with a sharp Limoncello ending.  High on interest but not as smooth as I now prefer.

Fielding Estate Winery Unoaked Chardonnay, Ontario, 2008 ($15.75) 88

Here’s a slightly fruit-forward wine that transitions into acid in the cheeks at the end.  The fruit is a nice combo of peach and lime that balance each other well.