By Greg Thomson
Bottle Shock, the movie, does not come as much of a shock to me, although it is a bit surprising it didn’t come sooner. After the leap in consciousness around Pinot Noir in the wake of Sideways, I would have expected the California wine industry to immediately jump on the Judgment of Paris as a premise for a Hollywood hit. And now they have: twice.
Two movies, the recently released Bottle Shock and the soon to go into production, tentatively named Judgment of Paris (if they think they can still make a go of it after Bottle Shock), purport to tell the story behind the 1976 Judgment of Paris — where top Californian wines were pitted against top reds from Bordeaux and whites from Burgundy. The winners of the white and red “competitions” were Napa’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay and Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon.
While the idea of Judgment of Paris is to follow the story of the event as detailed in journalist George M. Taber’s book of the same name (Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine), many people are a bit miffed that Bottle Shock only deals with the Montelena — the white — side of the story. In any event, the media attention around these movies should be enough to bolster the California wine market and help to maintain the momentum that really only started to gain international strength after the actual Judgment of Paris.
It doesn’t surprise me that California wines fared so well in a blind taste test against the French. California does make some great wine; and (although I was in no position to make that claim back in ‘76), I can well imagine that Stag’s Leap and Montelena were offering something quite special.
But the main reason that I can easily imagine the French being knocked off their haughty perch is that I have done a number of blind taste tests and I know that choosing between two great wines is quite a crapshoot. Even choosing between a “good” wine and a “great” wine (where “good” and “great” are defined based on reputation and/or price) can produce surprising results, as we all have different tastes, and those tastes can change based on our current state of mind, etc., etc. At one blind tasting I attended last year, the vast majority of people (including me) chose an Argentinean Malbec over an Amarone that cost significantly more.
And don’t get me started about the pathetic tasting ability brought out in the great book The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine, because I don’t have enough room left in this column — check in next issue.
The only thing that matters to me is my own taste. It doesn’t matter what the so-called “experts” say about a wine. I’ll just keep trying wines and loving some and hating others, but enjoying the journey.
Greg Thomson hopes to own his own vineyard one day, a background for the Judgment of Thomson, in which Greg’s wines will successfully knock both the French and the Californians off their perches.
Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, California, 2006 ($44.95) 89
A very accessible, smooth, harmonious wine, but I don't think it's worth the cost. It has a medium-full flavour with tropical hints and a wonderful finish, especially for a 13.9% alc. wine. Nice to try for its historical significance but I was hoping for more.
Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay, Ontario, 2006 ($22) 88
A mostly steely white with a tiny hint of sweet butterscotch at the back of the throat. Peach and lime intermingle with a slight taste of detergent — it all works very nicely.
Antonin Rodet Meursault, Burgundy, 2005 ($42.95) 88
Aromas of dull pear and earth. Its taste is a bit musty and full-bodied with lots of oak and hints of alcohol. It mellows a bit when warmer but remains s rough, coarse treat for the senses.
Strewn Barrel-Aged Chardonnay, Ontario, 2006 ($12.75) 87
Dry, straightforward wine with a bit of acid on the tongue at the end. Nice flavour, but it tastes a little watered down. Great value for those late summer evenings.
Nugan Estate Cookoothama Chardonnay, Australia, 2006 ($13.95) 87
An easy drinking medium-bodied wine with a slightly creamy texture. Lime, peach, and apple up front with nice acid at the end.
95-100: Heavenly 90-94: Outstanding (but still earthly)
85-89: Great (we're in special occasion territory)
80-84: A very good wine - can't go wrong
75-79: A good, weekday wine
70-74: Drinkable (preferably after a bottle of 75+)
<70: Life's too short…
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