Vive la France!

By Greg Thomson

I’m starting to make a bit of a nuisance of myself at my local LCBO. A couple of weeks ago I overheard a customer asking one of the LCBO staff about the differences between a few wines. The staff member said that, in the end, it all comes down to personal preference and suggested that the customer try more than one, side by side, and this would help them learn more about what they liked. I couldn’t have agreed more and I had just recently staged a tasting at home that surprised everyone involved – it truly is amazing what can be revealed by a blind tasting – so I interjected.

I started to suggest a method of holding a blind tasting that would allow everyone to have a lively discussion about the wines and not bias others with their thoughts, but I could tell from their responses that this person really just wanted someone to tell them what they should like. And I know that there are enough people who have this same general outlook, that wine resembles perfume – price and brand are the strongest indicators of “quality.”

The other thing I do at the LCBO is snoop. If they had competitors, I’m sure the staff would think that I worked for one. I wander around taking notes on new products, pricing, the size of the organics section – anything that strikes my fancy. And the other day a question came to me as I sauntered around the France “track” of the huge Summerhill store. I have always been impressed by the quantity of French wines available, but as I poke around, I’m frustrated by the prices. Are they worth it? Is the quality really there or is the French “brand,” coupled with high prices, making consumers believe they should like their wines?

As a statistician at heart, I had to check out the numbers first.  Based on the LCBO online product database of red and white wines, I took a look at where our wines come from. Based on the number of different products available, France leads with just over a quarter of all wines at the LCBO, followed by Italy (16%), Canada (15%), and the US and Australia (both 10%). However, for wines priced over $50, France dominates by providing 55% of the SKUs – in fact, almost half of all French wines listed are over $50, compared to just 22% of all listed wines and a measly 4% of Canadian wines being sold at this price level. So the French wines available to us really are more expensive, but are they worth it?

If the Judgment of Paris, its similarly-named follow-up 30 years later, the Berlin Tasting, and other blind tastings by such organizations as Wine Spectator and the French Culinary Institute are to be believed, the high prices charged by French producers are not warranted.

My own experience would corroborate this finding. While my two favourite bottles of wine ever were from Bordeaux (Chateau Latour and Chateau Cheval Blanc) and my favourite wine under $20 is from the southern Rhone (Barbabelle), I rarely feel that I am getting a good bargain from a French producer on the lower end of the price scale and I have often felt let down by the quality of the wine when I pay a bit more for a French wine.

The French make great wines, but these days so do producers in many other countries. Why not try a blind tasting of your own? For me, it’s the best way to discover what I really love about wine.

Chateau de Caraguilhes Cuvee Prestige Corbieres, France, 2007 ($23.45) 91
An austere wine with a price that makes it perfect as a dinner party favourite. Deep, dark fruit in both the aroma and taste. Concentrated berry, a hint of spice, and nice tannins come together gorgeously in this organic Syrah / Mourvedre / Grenache / Carignan blend. Available from Wineonline.ca.

Marc Kreydenweiss Barbabelle, France, 2007 ($14.95) 90
Best value red around. It is such a versatile wine that we have it with hamburgers, pasta, steak, and chocolate. Another organic Syrah / Grenache / Carignan blend that is lighter than the Caraguilhes but one of my favourites. Available from Wineonline.ca.

Chateau Preuillac Cru Bourgeois, France, 2006 ($29.75) 88
Beautiful deep strawberry, cherry, and earthy aroma promises great things. It comes close to delivering but it feels a bit thin, followed by pleasing tannins, missing the meat in the middle to give it substance and depth. This Merlot-Cabernet promises “the epitome of gourmet delight” – a typical overpromising by a French wine.

Domaine Roux Pere & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chaumes, France, 2009 ($38.95) 90
This wine makes me pine for the dock at sunset. A full, complex Chardonnay that mixes sweet butterscotch with earthy minerals. Not the smoothest Burgundy but plenty of interest.

Domaine Raimbault Sancerre, France, 2009 ($22.95) 89
Sancerre is a summer favourite at our cottage when we’re in the mood for a dry white with character. Lots of citrus, steely acid, and minerals combine for intrigue. If a dry white with character sounds tempting, this is a great deal.