What's in a Label?

When I am standing in the liquor store trying to decide on a wine, I sometimes feel like a kid in a candy store, while at other times it’s more like I’m lost in a sea of choice. I shouldn’t complain about the choice – I actually seek out liquor stores with an amazing selection – but how do I choose? With over 9,000 “wine” items on the LCBO online product search, picking a single bottle is no easy decision.

At times I opt simply for something that I’ve loved previously. However, given my continual drive to find my next favourite wine, I usually pick up something completely new. But what is it that draws my eye in?

I can broadly think of four types of label which I will call Elegant, Chateau, Funky, and Little Animal. I typically ignore the Little Animals. Those are the mass-produced, mass-marketed penguins and kangaroos (as well as other real gimmicks that I’ve lumped in with the critters) that are almost all about the label while the contents are secondary. Funky labels come from wineries that are trying to differentiate based on their label to somehow make their (sometimes quite nice) wine stand out on the shelf. These are harder to judge. Usually the more they feel they need to “market” (and the closer the label gets to the Little Animals), the lower the quality, but I’ve found some very nice “devil” wine and “bicycle” wine by chance.

Moving into the realm of being able to trust the label more, the next category is Chateau. While labels with pictures of Chateaux historically came from the best of the Old World, today New World wineries are using mansions and castles as well in an attempt to display their quality. A study found that younger drinkers view these labels as signs of pretentiousness and stuffiness, but they do have a better batting average than more radical marketing “tricks.”

Finally there are the Elegant labels – plain writing stating the winery, type, vintage, and other basic information. Nothing flashy, nothing that would be viewed as eye-catching, but these are the ones that usually do catch my eye. The wine lives or dies by what’s in the bottle, not on the bottle. In a totally unscientific stab at it, I would guess that I enjoy 70% of wines with Elegant labels, 50% of Chateaux, 30% of Funky, and 10% of Little Animals.

There is no sure-fire way of judging a wine without tasting it. Even when I pick up a few bottles that have been rated as four-star or over 90 points, it is obvious that my tastes do not always coincide with the raters, as I am often disappointed. The key is to learn what aspects of wine you like, to seek advice and suggestions, and then take a leap. Pick up that bottle with the sideways handwriting on it if the description appeals to you. I call it wine roulette – I never know when I’ll find my next favourite.

Chateau de Caraguilhes, Cuvee Prestige Corbieres, France, 2007 ($21.95) 91
Here’s a Chateau wine that really works. It is a deep cherry Kool-Aid that oozes with character. Gorgeous aroma of strawberries and cherries. The flavour is a wonderful mix of fruit and earth with lingering, smooth tannins. Organically grown and available through WineOnline.

Carmen Nativa Single Vineyard Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile, 2006 ($19.95) 90

This is a full-body wine with flavours of blueberry and tar that you can really sink your teeth into. Hints of floral and lingering tannins provide added interest. There is something quirky about this wine but it is a real delight.

Zuccardi Q Tempranillo, Argentina, 2006 ($18.95) 90
Another high-intrigue wine. Tar, tannins, and piquey fruit blend into a harmonious treat. It is full-flavoured and oh so easy to drink. I love Tempranillo and this is a wonderful example of what this grape can produce.

Doña Paula Estate Shiraz/Malbec, Argentina, 2007 ($17.95) 90
Here’s a wine that fills the mouth with flavour and hints of spice. Great body with licorice, fruit, and nice tannins – lots going on but it comes together very well.